At last escaping the Highveld cold (and Hank and Pete - the Natal cockroaches), we arrived in drips and
drabs in Kwa Nokeng. Some of us were given an early taste of things to come as a Hippo made its leisurely way past the campsite as we’d settled down for the first beer of the holiday. A burger and boerie braai that night and we made the acquaintance of our fellow travellers. You will meet them all through this account. For those mathematically inclined or easily confused there were 15 travellers and 9 vehicles. This is easily explained - while travelling together a number had decided that they all wanted to test the mettle of their respective vehicles – with varying degrees of success as it turned out. 
A really frosty Saturday morning, we chipped the ice off the tents and, hands freezing, were off for the long pull to Audi Camp in Maun, stopping briefly (or not so) in Mopipi to refuel. The pace was fairly sedate given that we were making allowance for Her Majesty’s Vehicle (Sylvo’s rather green Defender) and, of course, the movie in the California was clearly distracting “he who cannot be named” – henceforth known by a random, alphabetically selected, nom-de-plume of Alistair. Wild horses cannot drag his real name from me.
Arriving in Audi Camp we set up camp in double quick time, clearly a bunch of seasoned campers, (or was it thirsty) and settled down for an evening of drinks and more acquainting.
The first meal provided by Simon, of Mafunyane Adventures, with his staff of Fana and Pius, let us know that we had indeed chosen the correct guide. Come whatever adventures, we would at least be well fed. We were also introduced to the red 5 litre Jerry Can. Simon had clearly learned, from Kingsley Holgate, that there were some things that a traveller just has to have on a trip. Rumour has it that Alistair and Sylvo carried out a late night sortie to reduce the volume of music coming from a nearby campsite, hosted by a somewhat grumpy Lourens. They must have been extremely successful in their venture as the rest of us slept quite peacefully.The next morning saw a leisurely start, with some taking the Delta flight and others merely taking their time before a great brunch. We might have got away a little earlier had we not had some delays with refuelling that saw one of our number nearly achieve a 1st for the FWDCSA - being locked up in a Maun prison.
He did, however, eventually make it out to where the rest were waiting on the dirt road on the way to Moremi, via the Mababe Village, to have a look at the deep water crossing over the Khwai River. We stopped at the village and were informed that it was impassable, but that someone had created a ford a little further back. We found that and crossed it with the minimum of fuss, though with a little excitement as Gerhard’s rather wide and heavy Cruiser tested the handy work and the California tested the middle mannetjie.Other than a few Hippos, Elephants, Zebras, the ubiquitous Impala and a taste of wonderful bird life, the track to our camp at the Khwai Community Campsite went with little ado. The were moments of confusion as some drivers were temporarily distracted by the unusual plumage of a bird on top of another vehicle going in a different direction, but being the seasoned travellers that they were, they made it back on track.
What followed was the normal activity as we established a more permanent camp than we had to date, this particularly true of those with trailers and ground tents. This included the erection of showers, toilets and groundsheets being laid. Part of the preparation was for Derek to lay a game fence around a few tents by means of pouring a ring of Jeyes Fluid around a few tents. To this day we don’t whether that measure was effective, or if it was the snoring that kept most animals at bay. It wasn’t much, but it was home. That done most vehicles left in different directions to explore our surroundings, with some good sightings of the animals and an early Fish Eagle to ensure that Di had started to meet her quota.
Later the crew started to gather to ensure that our first real bush sunset was witnessed with sufficient 
celebration. It was abundantly clear that there was no danger that people would run out of liquid sustenance before this trip was over. While sitting around the campfire, having a few drinks and enjoying yet another great meal, Roman proceeded to demonstrate that a joke told with gusto did not need to have a good punchline to be funny. Supported by garlic schnapps this was to be a feature that kept us in stitches throughout the trip.Those that had been “disturbed” by the music the night before took an early night and got their snores in early. What a cacophony!! I don’t think that I have ever heard as many different timbres and volumes. If we were waiting for the quiet of the bush to set in, think again – it never happened. I don’t believe it for a moment, but I am told that I that I also contributed. No self respecting wild animal was coming anywhere near!! Despite this disturbance, a hyena did manage to steal the top of Roman’s cooler box to chew a few holes in it.
The next morning we were up bright and early to see if there was game around. This departure was led Steve and Meg, though some were dragged out of bed by their partners to participate earlier than they had anticipated. Some went north and some south. Those of us that went north were rewarded by and early sighting of Wild Dogs – always something special.Given the late and heavy rains in Angola, Moremi had far more water than usual at this time of the year and we were “forced” to drive through some fairly deep patches of water to get where
we were going, and some mud holes were approached like school kids, just to get it out of our systems. One ford looked particularly deep and was approached with gusto by the Britzs and Pikes – water coming over the hoods. Seeing this Geoff and Bruno turned around. They were not scared, they were just driving an Isuzu. Once on the other side we encouraged a Swiss traveller to get through. When he did we realised that taking the right (not the one we took) line would have been far less interesting.Back for great brunch and some “camp maintenance” (this involved checking the inside of our eyelids for cracks). The bush shower and toilet had been set up and were looking quite civilised. Later on great use was made of these amenities by those that wanted to, some voluntarily and some under duress. It is a truism that having ladies on a trip makes the men a little cleaner.
It was around about now that Roman’s Nissan was declared US, with the most horrific screeching emanating from his fanbelt and the advice in his manual being to refer it to the dealer – a bit difficult where we were. His “friends” advised him, to his bitter disappointment, that it would be best to park it until we left. He was relegated to riding in Her Majesty’s Vehicle as a spotter and navigator. The California was also parked – as capable as it had proven to be, it wasn’t a 4x4 and Alistair joined that crew.
More hilarity was on offer that night, with people being a little stronger than the night before. Some commentary was directed our way as we dined around a table, with a tablecloth and overhead light. Very civilised. Alistair’s table and chairs had been co-opted by Gerhard and Pete and they too were quite comfortable. That night was a little later that previously, with fair amounts of red wine being consumed. Hawk Eye Hank picked up Hyena’s skirting the camp, only to have their retinas burned by Sylvo’s torch. I have never ever seen anything that size!! This was followed by half the camp going on a night drive – I’m still blissfully unaware of whether it was successful or not.
We had decided that we were going to go to Xanakaxa and possibly 3rd Bridge for a drive the next day. What might become apparent to you is that I appeared to miss a couple of things, this being one of them. 
The purpose of the trip still escapes me, but nonetheless we were up early and off to North Gate for a brunch stop, and then on to Xakanaka. It was a relatively sedate drive until we stopped at the Hippo Pool in Moremi Game Reserve. Time was checked and we decided that a bit of speed was required to make sure that we had sufficient time to make it back to our camp. There followed a “rally” with Steve and Meg performing the task of keeping the two ends of the convoy in touch. We arrived in Xanakaxa in a cloud of dust and pulled up to the boat hire station.
What now? We’d determined that, in current conditions, 3rd Bridge was a little far away. Sylvo, Gerhard, Roman, Pete, Alistair, Steve and Meg hired a boat to take a short tour in the swamps and Simon, Gavin, Vanessa, Hank, Derek, Di, Geoff and Bruno made our way back to Moremi – thinking that we’d make it just before sundown, and that the boat trippers would be late. 
As an aside, I’m not sure whether it was the speed or the focus on a fairly winding road that led us to conclude that there wasn’t a helluva lot of game in the Moremi reserve, and that we had seen more in our neck of the woods. I suspect that it was a combination of the speed and the fact that there was such an abundance of water that the game didn’t have to move much. We were, however, treated to regular sightings of Red Lechware, which are not a species that we get to see that often.
The lead convoy, being the more sedate of the group, found our way back to Moremi just as the sun was going down. A long day – with one or two more days Xakanaxa should possibly considered as a stop for future trips, rather than a day turnaround – but that might just be my opinion. Imagine our surprise when HMV pulled in very shortly after us followed by Pete and Gerhard in the Cruiser and Steve and Meg in the Pajero, having been at least an hour behind at the start. This then was the Moremi – Xakanaxa Classic Race. Some detractors claimed that this would unlikely have been defined as a race had Sylvo, Alistair and Roman not arrived first, after some sterling navigation through the mud by Roman (reportedly). Nonetheless, the laurels were claimed with exuberance and a prize giving was arranged by said trio. Prizes were handed over and accepted with much pomp and ceremony, befitting a more momentous race occasion. An equal amount of congratulations and aspersions were heaped upon the “victors”. A great evening was had by all, with Hawk Eye again finding passing Hyena.
With the sound of Lion and Hyena lulling us to sleep (okay, it was probably too much alcohol) the next day the early risers were treated to an early sighting of the only Lion we (not the greater we) were to see and Steve and Meg managed a stunning Leopard sighting. Others raced to the spot and managed to catch a fleeting glimpse.
The rest of the day was spent at leisure, with some being forced out of the camp by the screech of a car alarm from the California – whose owner had disappeared with “the boys” for a much anticipated braai. We ended up spending the afternoon at a waterhole and being entertained by a lone Hippo then a leisurely drive along the river, followed by some lazy sundowners to end the day with a really nice touch of an Elephant greeting our arrival back in the camp. 
A, by then, normal evening followed. Any account of it would now be repetition – good food, good company, many laughs.
Friday morning saw us packing up to end the stay in Moremi and finding our way back to Maun. We tried a different crossing of the river to get back, but were forced along the same route that we had come and again experienced no hassles - back on the road and a very dusty trip back to Audi Camp. Oh yes, in case you had forgotten, even Roman’s Nissan made it back without a hitch. Conceivably the advice that he had received from his “friends” was not the best. Once there it dawned that the trip was on its way to a close, despite the fact that we had an evening there and would be stopping in at Khama Rhino Sanctuary on the way back to SA.
Given the hassles of taking meat South down Botswana Simon had chosen to let the restaurants of both establishments provide the last few meals and so we were not to be spoiled by his culinary expertise on those last two nights. Both evenings were well attended and well enjoyed, with the stop in Khama heralding the cold that we would be feeling back in SA. 
Well done Simon, great trip – well organised, well fed and well guided. We will travel with you again. To all of you on the trip, thanks for the laughs, camaraderie and entertainment. You made this trip and we met some really genuine people that we would hope to travel with again.
On a trip like this you learn some things;
· That game viewing a part of the experience and not a goal in itself
· That travelling is always enhanced by people who are relaxed, friendly and out to enjoy themselves.
· That when you can’t identify a bird its either a juvenile or a Penguin
· That you leave the Jeyes Fluid at home if you want animals in your camp (still might have been the snoring)
· Simon’s food was better than a restaurant
The sight of a large steel bridge being built over the river was disappointing. It is going to become far too easy for people to get here. This would hold true for many of the places that are special in Africa. I guess the trick is to keep looking and keep travelling.
