The 5 Rivers of the Caprivi - The Cherry on the Top

13 August – We’re heading back into Botswana, and it’s suddenly dawned that the holiday that stretched endlessly before us two weeks ago is now, all too swiftly, drawing to a close. But bugger that, we will not allow that thought to dampen the enthusiasm for the next trip. Glass half full, remember.

Kalizo to the Ngoma border post was not a long way away, but we didn’t waste too much time on getting going. We had planned to drive through the Chobe National Park, along the Chobe River, to Kasane, which was our next stop. However, at the back of our minds we had this little thought that we might, just might, be able to get into the highly acclaimed, but difficult to get hold of, Ihaha camp in the Chobe. We would not have measured the success of our trip on this, but we did think that an earlyish start might help.

Ngoma Border post was not huge, and was as pleasant an experience as all of the others that we had been through to date. We were checked a little more diligently for meat than before, and I think Nes and I still bear the scars of the sight of the inspection lady’s butt as it stuck out of the back of Derek’s car. It reminded us of some of those Garfield toys wedged in doors. A tube of lip-ice for her sore lips, and we were through. On the Botswana side there were a bunch of long distance truckers waiting and we expected a delay, but they just waved us through. So far, SA, Botswana and Namibia border posts had surprised and impressed us. Well done to all of them – they made travelling so much easier.

Through, and almost directly into Chobe – yet another really helpful Botswana National Parks lady – and we were into it. She ticked our hopes up a notch when she suggested that talking nicely to the guys at Ihaha might yield a good result. Although the reputation of this Park was good, our experience with game, so far, had led us to temper our expectations as far as that was concerned. However, as a 360 degree experience, we were still way ahead.
The road was rocky in places and sandy in others as we went off the main road onto the road along the river. Remember, we were still pulling our trailers. Lesser vehicles and trailers would have made this very challenging. Have I mentioned that I love my car?

Are those animals that we see – yes!!! Zebra first, 100’s of them (enough to lead Nes and Derek to decide that we could do with a Zebra rug), then Nes and I getting excited about a lone elephant, then young Kudu males – with amazing horns, then Sable and Roan antelope. Dare we hope? We arrived at Ihaha, a camp run by Botswana National Parks, to lunch time at reception – so no one to ask. We found what looked like an open spot with possibilities and had lunch, after having an argument with some German tourist who wanted the whole place to himself. After lunch we drove up to reception and Derek put on his best salesman manner and secured us an “unreserved spot”. At this stage, it would be fair to point out that Ihaha was not truly a commercial venture, but an open area in the reserve, with 8 reserved sites and a bunch of unreserved sites and two newish ablution blocks. Reserved sites were flat, with a braai and a baboon proof rubbish bin. Unreserved sites were not necessarily as flat, with no braai and no rubbish bin, and a fair walk to the ablution blocks. Given that this was an open area with no fences, it was more advisable to drive to the ablution blocks anyway.

With the trailers, levelling was done with a spade, rubbish bins with a packet, and electricity had not been an issue all the way. We grabbed a great spot, behind a big tree, and formed a laager (no not a lager) with the vehicles and trailer, and built a braai with rocks behind the tree. We needed to be fairly enclosed and to be able to light up our living area at night. Oh yes, in case you thought different, we started this process at about 2:30. This discussion took longer than normal because of some of the design considerations. At this stage it became apparent that not only men could think about erections as Nes proceeded to guide Derek and I on exactly where to place them (the tents). We “checked her skeef” at first (what does a girl know), but she was right!!

All done in double quick time, cooler boxes packed (definitely no citrus), and we were going for a game drive in separate cars – not because we tired of each other, but because this is good planning where there’re are elephant around (hopefully) – one can run while the other is trampled.

Part of our trip was to collect firewood from the bush as this was not sold at the camp. We would see a likely piece, shout “look out for lions” jump out, grab it and throw it onto the roof rack. We collected quite a lot that way, and also managed some exercise and an adrenalin rush. Saw a bit of game and then Derek announced over the radio that he thought we had found the factory for all of the elephant dung we’d seen. Around the corner – elephants everywhere. In the river, in the bush, on the flood plain, on the road. We quickly realised we were on their crossing path (which was everywhere), the Britz’s went forward and we reversed – to be separated by a veritable herd of elephants, of all sizes. Some idiots, French this time, tried to overtake me when I reversed and eventually realised that that wouldn’t have been a good idea. When the small crossing had finished, they disappeared in a cloud of dust. Sometimes people make you wonder.
I have never seen that many elephants together – even in movies. It really was an amazing sight, and one that we just took in. There were also Giraffe, Buffalo, Kudu, Baboons, Meerkat and, of course, Warthog. There was also the most amazing collection of birds – water birds and raptors. Just being a twitcher in this place would have been enough. To top it all, Fish Eagles abounded. This piece could have been entitled “Di’s quest for the perfect Fish Eagle”. No bird was left unphotographed. In fact, there was one slightly scruffy individual who was missed and who has now registered an official complaint.
All too soon the sun was setting and we wanted to be back at our camp to do the meal and settle with a few beers – which we duly did. While doing our bit in this, we heard some noises in the grass across the track. I turned on my spots and nearly blinded some elephants browsing close by. We weren’t too late that night, and listened to the sound of the wild as we slept (with our porta toilet inside the tent this time - none of us were going out there), hyenas, Zebra, elephants amongst them. This was an utterly amazing experience.

14 August Morning!! Derek, who was now doubling as our bushman tracker, circled the camp looking for spoor. Me, I’m not convinced, but there were now buffalo right where the elephant had been the night before.
While we were packing brunch to have on the trail, the biggest baboon that I have ever seen came quietly into the camp and stole some of the food off the Britz’s trailer. This thing was huge – stood nearly as tall as me on its back legs – I just shouted (no kicking for me) and it slunk off, totally unhurried, but made a duck when we grabbed the catties.
On the way we had a great sighting of Black Backed Jackal, Hippos, Crocodiles, Giraffe and pretty much everything that we’d seen the day before, just more. We were told by a passing guide that Lion has been spotted near the Serondela picnic site – got there, nothing. This, of course might have something to do with the fact that I heard “they’re about 5 Km’s away near a village” and Nes heard “near the picnic site on the ridge”. There was no village, but there was a ridge. Guess who was right? On our way back the midday river crossing of elephant had begun and we were entertained by families crossing and playing in the water, and the remarkable protection of the baby elephants.
Popped back to the camp for a butt break and chased some monkeys away. They weren’t nearly as insistent as others that we’d come across. On the way out we took the road less travelled and were rewarded with a sighting of a Kori Bustard (my first – the largest flying bird). Also buck, giraffe and buffalo – lots and lots of buffalo. It was a thoroughly pleasant afternoon. While on our way back to the camp to start a braai, we were forced to stop for buffalo crossing the track. 45 minutes later, we were still stopped. There must have been 2000+ that passed. How cool – that’s what Africa must have looked like before white people came on the scene.


It was starting to get dark, so we drove gingerly through the still coming herd, and caught the most magnificent sunset over the water on the way back. Not only that, Nes and I were lucky enough to see a mom and cub Brown Hyena playing nearby.Shower and braai tonight (both together – what a treat). It’s at this stage that I need to point out that what has become a trademark braai for Derek, (lots of fire, lots of coal and lots of beer, and normally quite late) led to the highlight of our trip.
Skip through the detail, and picture the scene. Food’s been eaten, drinks have been drunk, coffee and nightcaps are on their way – nearly time for bed. It’s full moon, we’re really chilled and just so happy to be where we are – this somewhat dusty, wonderful place in the middle of the reserve. A little noise – we step out from behind our tree and look (with little head torches – note to self – buy a decent bloody torch) and there are some elephants, babies and adults. Now that bit was cool. The somewhat less “cool” bit was that they were surrounding the baby protectively and looking at us with some intent. Okaaaay! Derek whispers, “turn your lights off, quietly move behind the fire (bugger, I hope that rumour is true – that wild animals are scared of fire), stand still and don’t say a word”. We did that – 4 fairly big people behind a fairly small fire – thankfully behind a big tree – and the elephants just glided through our campsite, front and back – almost close enough to touch. No smell, no sound. They just glided into the dark. WOW!! Was that ever intense? We needed that nightcap. The adrenalin was pumping. As Derek put it afterwards – “we were an integral part of an elephant’s decision making process”.
In the aftermath I was reminded to put the rubbish bag into the boot of the car. I forgot and went to bed. Nes reminded me again, but I was too tired (lazy) to do anything about it. In the middle of the night, there was a scratching noise, and the trailer was moving. O vrek, what now? A Honey Badger had paid us a visit and was having a great deal of fun with our packet. Anyone that knows these little buggers knows that they’re pretty hard headed and can be somewhat dangerous. (bugger - cameras are in the cars) Nes sticks her head out the tent to have a better look – “oh look, isn’t he cute”. The “cute” animal responded by trying to have a much closer look at Nes. Her head was pulled in with alacrity. He eventually shredded everything and left. Other than the sound of hyenas, very close, and other animals, the night passed uneventfully.


No question – this we’ve got to do again, and we definitely don’t want to leave now. But as they say, all good things come to an end. I’m getting to the age now when I’m saying – “bugger what they say, why do they have to?”
15 August. How sad, no more camping. This was by far the dustiest camp that we had been in yet, what a blast!! After we’d packed and showered (yes, it was that dusty) we hitched up the trailers and were, once more, on our way. We took the main dirt road out of the park to get some more viewing in, and stop at the Serondela picnic site for brunch – and then onwards. This road was really sandy and pretty challenging. We did pass some people (Germans) that were stuck and I even had to engage low range. Again, if it weren’t for these vehicles and trailers, we would’ve had more of an adventure than we would possibly have liked.
Other than that, the rest of the drive out was uneventful. We were on our way to Kasane and the Chobe River Lodge for our last real night. A little voice over the radio – “Gav, I’m getting pretty low of fuel, best we fill up”. (Remember my comment on filling up in Katima?) Okay, well let’s go then. Get to the first garage – no diesel. Oh dear. The next is 9 km’s away and we could almost hear Derek’s vehicle sucking air. Got to the next – pumps are down – computer glitch – can’t fill up. The thing that kills me every 1300 km’s was very welcome now – I have a 180 litre tank. Did I mention that I love my car? We took what was left in all of our jerry cans, about 5 litres and resolved to limp back into Kasane and hope to get lucky the next day. As we did that we noticed that the pumps had started working again – to our great relief. We have all resolved that the mantra by which we travel – fill up when you can – will be religiously adhered to in future.
I now come to a decision point in my writing – to go on and finish the journey, or stop and leave the rest for another day. Bugger that – I’ll go on. I don’t think that you or I have the energy for another one.
Arrived at the Chobe River Lodge, but it was too early to check in. You see – it wasn’t 2:30 yet. So we did the next best thing – we sat on the patio and drank some beer, and booked a booze cruise for later. At 2:30 (I promise) we checked in and got ready for the cruise. As fate would have it, given Di’s fixation, our boat was called the Fish Eagle II.
We climbed aboard and annexed the roof. Not too many other people seemed that keen. Better grab a beer. Over the afternoon, we grabbed more than one. We went on a very sedate cruise. Given that we had been so spoiled by game in the last two days, this was about enjoying the total experience (and the beer) than it was necessarily about seeing more elephants and buffalo. However, the bird life was astounding and we were to see birds that only existed in this area. It was fantastic and well rounded off by a spectacular sunset, through some bush fires, over the Chobe River.
That night, more beers and a great buffet dinner – with wine and whisky - a very civilised way to finish off a really amazing journey. That night we slept really well in beds, and arose to a hearty hotel breakfast before setting off on the long journey home.
I won’t dwell on that other than to say spots of the road to Francistown had potholes that were really challenging and dangerous, nothing like the Botswana roads that we had become used to. We slept over at the Desert Sands Motel in Palapye (in somewhat dodgy surrounds), had dinner and breakfast in the Wimpy, and made our rather (thankfully) uneventful way home – again via Stockpoort and Parrs Halt – and stopping off outside of Vaalwater at the local game butchery to stock up until the next time.
I know that this has been a series of long stories, and I hope that I’ve done the trip justice. I’ve tried to share some of the enthusiasm and excitement that we had for every day - some of the fun and adventure that we experienced, and some of the camaraderie that there was on this trip. The trip was really well planned, a good mix of travel, rest and excitement. D&D, you two missed your vocation. Despite some of my flippant comments, we could not have chosen better travelling companions. Derek and Di are experienced adventurers, and that experience was invaluable in making this trip smooth. For those of you that remember the dubbed TV show – he is the real Jopie Adam. And guess what – they’re also a helluva lot of fun and great mates too. For those of you that know Nes (or in this case – don’t), she never surprised me with what she can, will and did do. I’ve seen that on every trip we’ve done so far. In the old cowboy parlance (those of you that know the Sacketts) “she’s a woman that walks beside you”. It is always amazing for me to be able to spend these quiet, fun times and to share these adventures with you.
Just for you to get a feel for the poetry (I didn’t say it was good) that can come out of someone on a trip where you only have you, your mates, the bush and the sky – here is the promised summary of the 5 Rivers of the Caprivi.

The Zambezi - Imperious, unstoppable
The Okavango – Contained, slightly urgent, rushing to fill the Delta
The Kavango – Softer, more gentle. The place of sunrises and sunsets
The Kwando – A haven, restful, meandering, easing its way through the dryness
The Chobe – Nurturing and life giving, a gathering point

In summary, I won’t go all trite and say that you must do this trip. We know our kids would have loved this, and we thought about them in nearly every situation and have resolved to do something similar with them soon. We hope the Britz’s will join us. If you can too – do it. The trailer refuses to rest.