Bucket List #1 - The Serengeti

6 and a half weeks to the Serengeti to see the Wildebeest migration.  9 vehicles – 4 Defenders, 3 Prados, 1 Lexus 570 and 1 Hi-Lux. 2 vehicles had minor problems with only 1 tow required and all made it back under their own steam – with only 1 requiring quite a lot of attention. It was good to note that some of the larger African cities have really good workshops.

Our route took us through Botswana, Zambia, Tanzania, Malawi and Mozambique to home. It must have been good timing as very few pre-bookings were made and the campsites tended to be quite empty.

Botswana

Our only stop there was at Elephant Sands.  As always, it was a fantastic stay. We arrived to a Wild Dog kill some 100 metres from the campsite. At the time, there was very little water in the area other than here and we were treated to elephant sightings and behaviour that kept us entertained for the duration. It was a great 2 night stay to start the trip.

Zambia

After a quick ferry  crossing at Kazangula and a typically confusing border crossing we made our way to Livingstone and stayed near the river in a well grassed campsite. With quite a bit of partying and site seeing and thrown in – the Falls and a sunset cruise on the mighty Zambezi, it was a very pleasant 2 night stop that allowed us to start getting to know one another.

Then off to Lusaka and the Eureka Campsite – a transit stop that served us well for refuelling and supplies. It was a clean and serviceable campsite with good ablutions. Driving through Lusaka the next morning was a nightmare and it rivals any traffic that Joburg throws at you.

From there we took a long detour to see Lake Waka Waka. This turned out to be a waste of time and fuel. Not much of a lake and, though the Community Campsite was adequate, the ablutions were far less so. It was, however, a very interesting drive to get there and out which sort of made up for the rest.

Kapishya Hot Springs was a revelation and a fantastic stop. It was a beautiful area with many photo opportunities for those so inclined. The campsite was great with good ablutions and hot water, which was to become a sought after rarity. Wonderful amenities, pub, restaurant and much time spent in the warm water of the springs. We left  there well rested for the next part of our journey.

Summary – Zambia remains one of our favourites. Beautiful countryside and wonderful people – but border entry is a pain and quite expensive.

Tanazania

The Border Post was everything that you’ve heard. The Tanzanians love paper work. It was manageable, expensive and took us 5 hours. This is when the acronym, TIA, came into its own and patience was a necessity, not a virtue. It might have been better to split the size of the convoy for that entry.

Utengele Coffee Farm Hotel was sublime. Most of us opted not to camp after experiencing that border crossing. The rooms, drinks, food and surrounds were an amazing fined and we had a fantastic stay - with much fun had by all.

After that, off to Iringa for a restock of all necessary items (Kilimanjaro Lager being one) and then onto Ruaha National Park for a 3 night stay in a wild camp on the banks of the Ruaha River. What a great park. Stunning Lion sightings and beautiful scenery made this one of our favourite places. The campsite was rudimentary, but functional, with running water warmed by the sun (but not by much).  It was a huge park – more than twice the size of Kruger and we saw only two other vehicles. How spoiled can you get?

Our next brief stop was the Tan Swiss Hotel – good campsite and very good bungalows if you were so inclined. We partied here as well – as we did in many other places.

In the next of distance forced stops as we made our way was the White Parrot. Not in the best location and showers were a problem. The other ablutions worked well and the campsite had stunning grass and a lapa that was well received. We had to keep counting people as the mossies threatened to carry us away.

Arusha was the final stop before a few days in parks. We stayed at the Colobus Campsite just outside Arusha. It had all the facilities, of which none worked.  It had been allowed to fall apart. So, unless it changes, avoid it. Arusha is big enough to aim for if you’re having vehicle problems – they had decent dealerships for both Land Rover and Toyota – and, in fact, had the parts that were needed. We were, however, lucky enough to have the clouds clear long enough for a beautiful sighting of Kilamanjaro, covered in snow.

At last we were starting to get closer to our ultimate destination and made our way, through more beautiful countryside, to the famous Ngorongora Crater. The initial site of it was breathtaking and we could barely contain the excitement. We stayed in the public campsite on the crater. Everything worked. Be warned, Overland Trucks come in there and they made sure that the ablutions were messed before they left. Camping there was one of the most unpleasant experiences, but this was because of the weather. Freezing, seriously windy and wet. The crater itself was an experience not to be missed, and probably not to be repeated. There was very little you didn’t see, but the animals were too used to humans and vehicles. The views, however, were spectacular and enough to make you forget any negatives. The drive, in and out of the crater, was absolutely amazing. Two nights there were more than enough and most couldn’t wait to leave.

The drive to the Serengeti was exceedingly picturesque, as was all of Tanzania, but we hit corrugations from hell. We tried to maintain a speed of 50km, which seemed to smooth them out. If your vehicle, suspension and accessories handle this road, they’ll handle anything. As we entered the park we were greeted by the first signs of the migration as the convoy stopped for 1000’s of Grey, white bearded Wildebeest to cross the road. Around them were massive amounts of Zebra, Thomsons Gazelle, Grants Gazelle and Topi. Just before we hit the public campsites we were also greeted by a Lioness high up in a tree, which was to be a feature of the Serengeti. Over the next few days we were treated to sightings that you only dream about. Because of the migration and the availability of Wildebeest young, we were able to see Lion, Leopard and Hyena – almost at will. With a few exceptions, most of the Lion sightings were in trees. The wildlife and birding in the Seronera area was amazing – the likes of which we have never seen before. Unfortunately the rains were late so the Wildebeest stayed in the area – many 1000’s of them – but there was no crossing of the Grometi River. While we would have loved to see a crossing, but the lack of it did not detract from the Serengeti experience.  Apparently they only move towards the river and then the Mara once feed and water become scarcer. Each night we were lulled to sleep by the sound of Wildebeest all around, accompanied by Lion and Hyena calls. We were even woken one morning by tourists in our campsite while a large herd of Elephant were right in the campsite. Amazing!!

The undoubted highlight was the balloon flight over the Seronera area. The pilots were good and the experience was mind blowing. Definitely worth doing – even at $500 per person. We saw a different perspective of the area.

The public campsites were functional and good with plenty of space, but be warned, the water was damn cold.

After a few days of this we moved camp to the Lobo area, in the North East extremities of the park. Fantastic views greeted us when we arrived and when we awoke. It was a really beautiful part of the park. Game was not as plentiful, but we did hear Lion and Elephant and Buffalo were pretty much in the camp. Again, the camp was pretty rudimentary with cold water ablutions. By now we’d almost forgotten what warm water felt like. And yes, even that close to the equator, it does get chilly at night. When we exited the park we reached our most Northern point of 1’58” South of the equator.

We were sad to leave as this meant  the start of going back. We were, however, keen to get to the next place we’d opted to go and have a look at Lake Natron and take the road around the South of the Ngorongora and retrace our route through Tanzania. This was the starkest, but most spectacular, part of the trip. The areas to and from Natron were like driving through the badlands – but what a trip. This area has to be seen to be believed. I don’t know much about volcanoes, but I’m sure that this must be one of the youngest around. We drove through larva beds, that looked as they’d run just a few years ago (obviously not), and this volcano has spewed ash less than two years before.

Some people believed that this part of the trip could have been skipped – my view is just the opposite. It was one of my personal highlights.

We stayed in a Masai Community Campsite and it was very special. They couldn’t have been more willing and helpful. Even the cold water wasn’t that cold and the ablutions were very good. It was a pleasant surprise.

Leaving there was the most amazing drive – where the dust particles even had dust. The views and starkness continued to be spectacular!! The only negative was been stopped 3 times along this road for “Community Area Tolls”. 320USD later!!

All vehicles were still good in Arusha so we cut the stop to one day. All that was required was the blowing out of air filters and get the vehicles washed. There were layers upon layers of dust.

We stayed at Karama Lodge to spoil ourselves with hot water and no camping for a night. A great place and, if you feel like lodging, definitely worth a visit.

From there we retraced our steps via the White Parrot, Tan Swiss. This time, however, we stopped at the Old Farmhouse Campsite. This place had come highly recommended for their food and ablutions. The ablutions lived up to their reputation, having the hottest shower for ages!! The food we didn’t get to test as we hadn’t pre-booked. It had a nice little campsite with little lapas to sit under. It was a thoroughly enjoyable stay. The trip out was to spend the last night in Tanzania in the same way we had spent the first – in luxury at the Utengele Coffee Lodge Hotel. Good choice!!

22 days in Tanzania were some of the best days ever in Africa. It is a stunning country, with views and surrounds to gawk at. Many times we were well over 2000m. It was dry, green, high, low. The roads were good and the passes amazing. Two things to bear in mind – if T4A says 8 hours, it’ll take 8 hours. There were so many trucks and busses to contend with, and the bus drivers make our taxis look like beginners. Tanzania is a must visit. Between it and Zambia you realise that African Countries can actually work. We had very few of the reported hassles with Police and roadblocks and those times that we did get stopped, the people were courteous and friendly. It was very seldom, no matter where you were, that you weren’t greeted with a genuine karibu (welcome). People would stop you to talk to you, openly and with interest, without wanting anything other than conversation. It really lifted the spirits – and kept them lifted.

The Masai I could do without. Their legend seems to have been diluted by the availability of tourists. They were pretty haughty and money grubbing. Even wanting to visit their traditional villages and take photographs led to a substantial fee. We skipped this.

Malawi

Entry into Malawi was a doddle – nothing like Zambia and Tanzania, and the drive to the border was amazing. The tea plantations, the passes – absolutely beautiful.

We headed straight for Chitimba Lodge and Campsite, on the North Western shores of Lake Malawi. It was immediately apparent that this country did not have the same feel as Tanzania. It was clearly poor and struggling, although driving was very easy and the roads were good. You very seldom went more than 300 metres without seeing people. A small, very heavily populated country, without the organisation of some of the others.

Driving along this massive lake was quite something. It looks like the sea, sounds like the sea, the fishing villages look the same as the ones on the sea – but there is no smell of the sea. It confused the senses. In the north there is no bilharzias and the water was clean and the beach thoroughly enjoyable.

Chitimba was a very good campsite with nice facilities and a great bar. Cold water at this stage, but apparently he is working on it.

We enjoyed our stay there, but had very coastal weather, in terms of wind, for the two days.

The drive away from the lake was also very picturesque as we headed towards Lilongwe for an overnight stop before hitting Mozambique. If the idea of the Lilongwe Country Club campsite evokes thoughts of camping in luxury on fairways, think again. However, by this stage, adequate campsites were starting to become the norm. It had grass, fireplaces and good ablutions. That was good enough and a decent overnight stay.

We left Malawi much as we found it. Not a country that engenders any feelings of closeness or love, but, to be fair, we probably didn’t give it its due.

Mozambique

The border crossing from Malawi to Mozambique was no hassle. There were no runners or officials giving you a hard time – only the ubiquitous money changers.

We headed for Tete, being the most likely big city and T4A showed a campsite. We refuelled (having very little available fuel in Malawai), Handlings (our saviour) for 2M’s , a data card and some food. The Tete Campsite was the campsite from hell!! Dirty, filled with building rubble and shocking ablutions and slap bang in the middle of a township. Most people’s faces dropped in dismay when seeing this. Only two of us got up the courage to actually use them. But, it was the only game in town and when the initial shock wore off, it had the most spectacular views of the Zambezi River. The campsite was right on the banks. This was also the only place that we experienced any negativity on the behalf of the locals as two tents were slit and some petty thievery took place. Anyway – onward and upward – we were going to the beach!!

As an aside – did you guys know that Mozambique had mountains? I didn’t realise that this part of Moz was so attractive!!

Next stop was Chimoio, again to restock. This was a really attractive city. We stayed at the Milpark Hotel and Campsite. The chalets were stunning, the campsite not bad, but the ablutions hadn’t been maintained.

Driving through Tete and Chimoio it was evident that there was a lot of development in this area and that money is coming into the country. Other than a spot or two, the roads were also very good.

Next stop, Baobab Beach Lodge in Vilancoulos. What a stunning stop!! Great campsite, good ablutions, nice bar and right on the beach. Well worth a stop and stay. We also managed to get a trip to Margarouk in on a Dhow. The snorkelling was good, if somewhat cold and we had fantastic meal on the island.

That was a great stop and just what the doctor ordered. We then went off to Tofo and stayed at the Mango Beach Resort. We lodged there – also a great stop, with a boozy lunch at Dino’s thrown in. We managed some fishing in Tofo and landed some decent Yellow Fin Tuna, which was cooked that night, to wind up the trip.

The Pike’s and Britz’s loved the Mozambique bit as much as any of the other. The others less so.

The trip had drawn to a close and it was with great sadness that we wound it up, via a stop at Honeypot, before heading home with only a 20 minute border stop at Komatipoort.

Mozambique had definitely benefited from the better roads and there is no doubt that their economy is picking up. With the exchange rate it is no longer a cheap stay for South Africans, but it is well worth it.

The whole trip was around 10,600 km’s. A lot of things we would do differently, some routes that we would change, but it is definitely something to do again. The whole experience was fantastic and it makes you fall in love with Africa all over again.