Our Blue Safari - White Sand, Blue Sea

Months in the planning, and months of anticipation, days of purchasing and packing, a long trip from PE for Pete and Margie and we were finally off.

The Pike’s got away at 04:00 on Sunday 21 March – followed closely by the rest at 05:00. And no, this was not because the Prado was slower!! There must be daylight savings slightly east if us that we didn’t know about.

Be that as it may, we made our fairly leisurely way to the border post. Here it is important to remember that, in writing these accounts, I always resolve to report positively. With Juju, Bob, Eugene, the Lion’s Super 14 efforts etc. there is more than enough negativity around – I refuse to be a part of that.

At around lunchtime we passed, with little fanfare, out of SA with help from the SA border officials who were clearly overworked and finding the day very long. We were assisted through the Mocambique side by a number of energetic fellows who insisted on helping us and then by a customs official who signed our vehicles through with no delays. We showed our appreciation for this assistance with some cash. Ahhh, capitalism is a wonderful thing.

From there to the Spar on the outskirts of Maputo to stock up with Mets and beer - we believed that we might need both for our trip. This belief was correct. Going through Maputo was the only time that we were stopped by police on our entire trip. They quickly worked out that the 3 vehicles were fine, and that we didn’t understand a word they were saying and let us carry on.

By this time we were starving and, knowing that Zona Braza (our first stop) was quite a way away, we stopped at Ultra City for a very welcome Prego and our first 2M (pronounced doish M). ‘twas beautiful.

Then through Xai-Xai – Oh - my - WORD – what happened to these roads? Moz might just have discovered the cheapest way to do traffic calming through their cities – and beyond – potholes!! The road beyond Xai-Xai was a revelation. They were fixing it, and the detour on the side was thick with sand, and almost a one way. We had a moment or two of consternation when some insistent trucks nearly had one of our number over the side. We arrived at the Zona Braza turnoff, and that road was in better condition that the EN1. After a few km’s of a narrow, sandy road, we arrived at Zona Braza, comforted in the knowledge that our 4x4’s had got us there – only to find that our 4 neighbours has gotten there in a Citroen Xsara-Picasso.

Let’s talk quickly about the roads, and then never mention them again. I’ve already mentioned some of it. There were some incredibly bad patches along the main road. So much so, that the side roads tended to be better than the main EN1. So, around Xai-Xai, Maxixe and a little north of Vilancoulos made sure that you kept your wits about you. The shoulders were often used in favour of the badly potholed tar. They made sure that you kept your wits about you, and that you tied everything down properly – there sure were bumpy parts. However, there were signs of work on the roads, by the Chinese, and this work heralds a great change. By all appearances, this will not take as long as you would think. Between our outward and return journey, there were long stretches of positive change. Maybe next year, most of this will be done. It sure will change the whole experience – as long as they leave the side roads for off-road vehicles.

We had dawdled a bit in Maputo, so it was dark when we arrived and didn’t immediately form impressions of the place. Over a few beers on the deck we flipped coins to see who would share, and who would be the honeymoon couple. The Pike’s won and we moved vehicles and trailers to the chalets. Trying to reverse my trailer into position we found that the trailer braking system doesn’t allow you to reverse, uphill, in thick sea sand. Never mind, our neighbours offered to help get the trailer down the slope. There was a moment of panic as the trailer started to run away – headed for a very steep descent into the dunes!! Quick thinking (luck) allowed us to steer the wheel into a retaining pole and stop it. It stayed there for the duration.

By now you would have realised that we weren’t camping, but in chalets. The B’s and N’s in a nice big one overlooking the ocean and the P’s in a quaint smaller one – with the kitchen a small thatched area separate from the bedroom. We unloaded the essentials, had dinner and a few drinks and retired to bed after a fairly long day. 2 nights ahead in Zona Braza. This was great planning - to allow us to get into the rhythm of Mocambique – an altogether different rhythm to that which we are used to. No prizes for guessing which is the more enjoyable.

Oh my word, but it’s warm. Down an easy hill for our first swim in the sea, wallowing in the water like whales. Magnificent weather, warm water – an idyllic morning, the first of many to come. Everybody was in their element. Two of us struggled a little with “just relaxing” and found a few things to keep us occupied. We’re going to have to find a tennis ball, or something, for these lazy days.

Between us arriving on the beach and leaving there was some type of dramatic earth movement – perhaps a slipped fault or something. The easy hill that we came down had morphed into a Killi type climb to get back up. Geez – I need a beer! Lo and behold, at the top of the summit was a bar, and ice cold 2M’s – how serendipitous. 6 newly burned people had a lazy lunch in the P’s little kitchen gazebo, with a number of 2M’s (see, I told you we needed to buy them) followed by an afternoon snooze and a great steak braai that evening.

Only 346 Km’s to go Pomene. We were really excited about this leg. We had tried a few years back, but Pomene had been washed away. We had a decent breakfast, thank goodness. 346 Km was to prove a little longer than anticipated on these roads. Driving is thirsty work, so we stopped at a local bar in Inharrime – what a magnificent lagoon - for a much needed beer, and in Maxixe again for some much needed food and drinks and then onwards to Pomene. The 1st 30 km’s or so were normal dirt as we wound our way through villages, slow traffic and cattle being taken for a walk. They all had leashes, so we assumed they’re like domestic pets, with the upside that you could eat them when they didn’t behave.

At the last little village the P’s picked up two forlorn Portuguese tourists trying to make their way to Pomene. They were really lucky that we met them when we did – it could have been a long wait. The last bit in was through a reserve, the dunes and some mangrove swamps. What a great drive. We had to let the tyres down a bit, but made it easily enough – though it may have proven tricky in anything but a 4x4.

It was getting dark when we arrived, but light enough to see the incredibly blue water and incredibly white sand. Oh boy!! More wonders await. Checked in and had to stop a very committed Jorge from giving us a whole tour before we set up camp. Despite the long break from camping, the only challenge, as per usual, was in where to put the bloody tents!! I guess this will never end. So, after much movement, backwards and forwards, we found our spots and pitched, all beds facing the sea. In this backwards and forwards, disaster befell us!! More on this later. Erection happened mostly in the dark, with a few muffled curses and sweat dripping. No harm, no foul, we were done. There was a Barraca on our site which became the kitchen. We had a somewhat disjointed dinner and drinks as we were all in and out making our arrangements, organising tents and beds and then a cold shower. No problem, it was really warm.

Opened our eyes – blue sea, white sand, blue sky, white butt – Oi – get out of my narrative!! Two wonderful beach days beckon. And that’s what they were. We still haven’t managed to find a tennis ball, but we will manage. The beach was pretty much a step from the campsite. In fact, we were camped on beach sand - beautiful, white beach sand. The weather was spot on, the sea a light blue on and a few umbrellas, chairs and the inevitable cooler box, and there we were. While lazing in the sun in the shallows the words of Winston Churchill came to mind – “never have so many words been spoken by so few in such a short space of time” – or something to that effect. Margie and Nes were the primary culprits, but there were some other sporadic contributions.

The second afternoon saw us retiring to the pool as the wind came up. A few beers and snoozes in the chairs were great for recharging batteries. That evening saw the guys dragging the ladies along to fish in the lagoon. Derek’s first cast saw his little rod (small fishing rod - behave already) was broken at the tip. Not to worry, he’s got a big rod. Let’s throw that in with the live bait that Pete caught. Bait up, throw – bugger, another broken rod. That little disaster I spoke about earlier – it appears that Derek’s rods ended up underneath more than one set of wheels in all the camp setting up. Not being luckiest fisherman alive I offered my rod up to his cause. Didn’t really change anything, that rod still hasn’t caught a fish!! This despite the fact that, for Pete and Derek, the fishing bug had bitten and they gave it a bash early the next morning again.

That night we had a fantastic meal in the restaurant – all of us opted for really fresh, delicious seafood. Despite the sundowners that we had, witnessing a wonderful sunset, and me drinking Chivas, the bill was incredibly reasonable – almost cheap. ‘twas a wonderful evening. We retired, replete and relaxed, to take up the next part of the journey. Pomene will definitely see us again.

For some reason I don't have a sunset picture of Pete and Margie - but they looked pretty much the same in any light (sorry Newtons - this'll have to do for now)

Oh yes, and I even managed to buy a Frisbee when we settled our bill.

Still another few stops on the way – stay tuned!!